Like all good Indian dads, his first response was: “No.”
“Indian restaurants are for families. How can you leave out the children?” said Vicky Vij, shaking his head with disapproval. “Who will come?”
Even as he tut tuts, young couples and groups of friends walk in. It is 7pm on a Thursday night in New York city, and INDN is buzzing with energy. Recently launched by Vicky’s daughter Kanika Vij Bakshi and her husband, Simran Bakshi, the modern Indian space revels in shattering desi cliches with savoury cocktails, small plates and, a sleek bar designed for an ‘above 21’ crowd.
The cocktails are savoury, with unexpected Indian flavours
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Special Arrangement
It is a good thing the kids are home with their babysitter. INDN’s tagline, splashed in bold across the main wall, is a rather bawdy Punjabi phrase that our desk made me cut — we are, after all, a “family newspaper”. I make the mistake of asking Simran to translate it for me, in front of a crowd of visibly amused diners. Then promptly need two more butter chicken cocktails to recover.
Inspired by the rise of savoury cocktails in spaces like New York’s Double Chicken Please (which has zoomed up global best bar lists, and is now virtually impossible to snag a reservation at), Simran and Kanika have created a bar menu inspired by dhaba classics.
Simran Bakshi and Kanika Vij Bakshi
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Special Arrangement
Simran says, “I wanted to create a drink that mimics butter chicken. So we began experimenting with mezcal for smokiness. Then started playing around, adding garam masala.” With a splash of Empirical Ayuuk, fenugreek and lemon, the drink was complete. We sip it appreciatively, as it conjures up images of road trip lunches and family dinners.
Discussing how the drinks took many months of R&D, Simran says they went through 20 iterations of the ‘Parle-G Spot’ before they learnt to balance the Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac and masala chai with a Parle-G foam. We also try Who the Chaat Are You?, which is my favourite: smooth and fiery with Cazadores Tequila Reposado, Cointreau and clarified chutney. Try the Saleem Ka Ghoda: Tanqueray, cucumber, amaro blend, lime and the jagged burn of Indian green chilis.
The restaurant is set up with an easy self-confidence that comes from experience. Simran and Kanika ran Spice Bazaar, a modern Indian restaurant in New Jersey for 10 years. They also have another not-so-secret weapon: Kanika’s dad. Vicky has run the popular Bukhara Grill, catering for high profile weddings and parties, in New York for decades.
INDN focuses on small plates of North Indian classics
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Special Arrangement
Together they made a smart decision with the food, one all three unequivocally agreed with: INDN would serve a robust, straight forward Indian menu with the cocktails. “People want authentic food,” says Simran, adding with a smile, “This is daru and chakna basically.”
Hence the brief for the chefs was to create, “Anything that goes well with daru,” says Simran. Traditional North Indian favourites, are styled up and served on small plates instead of the conventional heavy Indian three-course menu.
The message is clear: ‘Hello New Yorkers. Sure, Spain may have its trendy tapas, but have you tried our chakna?’
“We play with a lot of chaat and tandoori,” says Kanika, as the waiter sets down warm plates of Amritsari fish, encased in a crisp batter, followed by a platter of chicken, straight out of the tandoor. There are fluffy squares of buttered pav served with keema, and pan seared spinach patties. The highlights are the sheek kebabs, fragrant with the swagger of masala, and slow grilled lamb chops, cloaked in the heady scent of smoked garlic.
A tribute to India, the seasonal chaat changes through the year
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Special Arrangement
As we try the large plates – under the ‘Daru ke baad… ya Saath’ section, Kanika explains why they are not taking reservations for about 50% of their 90+ seats. “It has become so hard to get a table in New York, and personally, I enjoy impromptu dinner plans. I want people to be able to walk in,” she says.
Meanwhile her father urges us to try the dishes INDN has inherited from his Bukhara Grill: a charred traditional butter chicken in freshly made tomato sauce. “Nothing from a can,” he declares. And an indulgent dal bukhara, accompanied by chili oil kulchas and pudina lacha parathas.
As he chats with us, he waves hello and goodbye to guests. “I’m old school,” he confesses. “I’m a face to face guy. I don’t like Instagram.” Simran and Kanika laugh nervously as I ask him what he thinks about INDN.
There is an expectant silence.
“We fought about 21-plus and small plates. I had eight high chairs and four boosters for children in my Indian restaurant,” he says, shaking his head. Then adds the one thing you rarely hear from an Indian parent: “But I was wrong. This is good.”
Published – December 10, 2025 05:23 pm IST
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