Each day is nothing short of an adventure for them. They live an off-road experience daily behind the wheels, even as they ensure the safety of the passengers they ferry. They are the jeep drivers who take pilgrims between Karnataka’s famous Kollur Mookambika Temple and Kodachadri peak, navigating a rocky terrain.
For these jeep drivers, these treacherous bumpy rides in extreme conditions is a means to earn their livelihood. Zooming into their lives is the documentary, Wheels of Kodachadri, directed by filmmaker Sohan Lal.
The 35-kilometre jeep ride from Mookambika to Kodachadri takes over one-and-half hours, with around one hour spent on making way through the rugged terrain alone. The jeeps drop pilgrims at the base of Kodachadri after which they have to trek 1.5 kiloremetres to reach Sarvanjapeedam, the summit where Adi Sankaracharya attained spiritual enlightenment.
“I have travelled several times between Mookambika and Kodachadri, not just because I am religious. I cherish the experience. That was when I was amazed by the effort and skill of these drivers. Then I started knowing more about their lives and listened to their stories. Majority of them are Malayalis. In fact, there is a village there where most of these drivers stay,” says Sohan, who recently won the award for the best director for this documentary at the 16th edition of Pune Short Film Festival.
Sohan Lal, director of Wheels of Kodachadri
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SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
There was a time when devotees covered the entire stretch on foot, walking through the deep forests, taking an entire day to cover the distance. In 1984, a mud pathway was laid for jeep service. Initially, there was just one jeep, that too for the chief priest. Lakshman Devadiga, the first jeep driver, who now runs a shop selling pooja articles and photos of deities near the temple, has been featured in the documentary.
The number of jeeps eventually increased and now there are 136 of them, which operate like a well-oiled service. Each of them is allotted a number in the queue and have to wait for their turn. They are expected to charge the rate as prescribed by the union. “The usual rate is ₹400 per person and an additional ₹70 has to be paid at the Forest Department’s check post from where the off-road trip starts. However, the rate per head will vary depending on the number of people travelling in a vehicle,” Sohan says.
Jeeps waiting for passengers
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SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
The shoot was completed over a period of time since Sohan visited the place in different seasons to understand the struggles of the jeep drivers. “Rainy season is extremely dangerous. Their driving skill and courage are put to test often then,” says Sohan.
The drivers talk about how their vehicles regularly bear the brunt of the difficult terrain and end up getting repaired often for which they have to pay from their own pockets.
They also point out that once they drop the devotees at Kodachadri, it is a long wait for them at the base for their return. “It usually takes two hours for them to climb the peak, watch Sarvanjapeedam and come back to the base. But the problem is a jeep will have devotees who come from different regions. Often some of them would prefer to stay longer and meditate; some would choose to enjoy the breathtaking view. So the devotees return to the jeeps at different time and the drivers have to wait till all of them come back,” Sohan says.
A jeep navigating the rough terrain on the Mookambika-Kodachadri route
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SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
Meanwhile there has been a rise in the number of people who turn up only for the off-road experience and trekking, and not to pray at the temple. Sohan adds that what makes the place spiritual has a lot to do with experiencing the off-road part, whether you are a believer or not.
The documentary, currently covering the film festival circuit, is produced by Jahangir Shamz, the producer of acclaimed films such as Priyanandanan’s Bhakthajanangalude Sradhakku, Madhu Kaithapram’s Madhyavenal and Jayaraj’s Hasyam.
A mediaperson for over 15 years, Sohan has worked with various television channels as programme producer. An acclaimed directorial venture was the telefilm, Neermathalathinte Pookkal, based on Madhavikutty’s story, which won multiple awards, including five State awards.
He made his big screen directorial debut with Orkkukkuka Vallappozhum, starring Thilakan, followed by star-studded Kathaveedu, an anthology featuring stories of MT Vasudevan Nair, Madhavikutty and Vaikom Muhammed Basheer.
He has also made a trilogy of children’s films – The Great Indian Road Movie, Appuvinte Sathyanveshanam (which won State award for best child artiste) and the unreleased Swapnangal Pookkunna Kaadu.
Among the documentaries he has directed are Venal Vasantham and Autobiography of a Stray Dog. He has completed the shoot for a documentary on the culling of ducks in Kuttanad to prevent the spread of bird flu.
Currently he is working on a web series and a new feature film.
Published – June 24, 2026 07:46 pm IST
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